SrinagarGood evening.
Wazwan Way · The Royal Feast
The Wazwan.
Thirty-six courses, one copper trami — the feast Kashmir is named for.
Begin the feastNeed help?
Waza is here.
A concierge that has eaten everywhere and slept nowhere — ask it anything about Kashmir.
Chapter I — The Table
Four rooms hold a century of taste.
Not a list — a seating. Scroll, and be walked from table to table.
Table 01 — EST. 1918
Ahdoos
Where Srinagar has eaten since 1918.
A century-old dining room on Residency Road that taught generations what a proper Rogan Josh should taste like. Unhurried, unchanged, unmistakable.
Enter the dining room
Table 02 — WAZWAN HOUSE
Mughal Darbar
The wedding feast, every single day.
Wazas work the copper degs from dawn — the same courses served at Kashmiri weddings, plated for a table of two. Gushtaba here ends arguments.
Enter the dining room
Table 03 — FINE DINING
Clove
The art of dining, facing the Zabarwan.
Modern Kashmiri fine dining — heritage recipes composed like paintings, served in a room of walnut wood and candlelight beneath the mountains.
Enter the dining room
Table 04 — LAKESIDE
Shamyana
Dinner beside the still water.
A boulevard institution where houseboat lights flicker across your table. Come at dusk, order Yakhni, and let the lake do the talking.
Enter the dining roomThe full ledger
Every table, by destination.
Chapter II — The Code of the Trami
Four strangers. One plate.
- I
Wash first.
The tash-naer comes to you before the food — warm water poured over your hands. Nothing touches the rice before the water touches you.
- II
Eat from your quarter.
The trami feeds four. Your wedge is yours alone; the far side belongs to a stranger — and to their trust in you.
- III
The eldest breaks first.
No hand reaches before the senior one. Rank at the trami is measured in years, never in wealth.
- IV
Never refuse the gushtaba.
The last course is the host's honour, pounded smooth by hand for hours. Declining it ends more than the meal.
Chapter IV — The Roads
The road climbs before the view does.
Every pass and valley crossing in Kashmir, mapped by distance, altitude and the stops worth slowing down for. Drive one now — without leaving your seat.
Route 01 — Road Trip · Route Detail
Srinagar to Doodhpathri
One road, one steady climb into the meadow.
43.5 km · 1.5 hrs
Chapter VI — The Seasons
Scroll, and let time pass.
The same valley, four different masterpieces. Watch it turn.
Spring · March — May
The valley wakes in tulips.
Mustard fields run gold to the mountains; mornings smell of blossom and wet earth.
Summer · June — August
Meadows climb to the snowline.
Rivers loud with meltwater, shepherds moving higher, days that refuse to end.
Autumn · September — November
The chinars catch fire.
Orchards heavy with apples; every avenue burns amber, copper and rust.
Winter · December — February
Snow rewrites the valley.
Frozen lakes, pine forests hushed white, kangri embers glowing indoors.
One Valley.
Four Masterpieces.
No matter when you arrive, Kashmir has another story waiting.
Explore Kashmir
Chapter VII — Meet WazaYou've seen Kashmir.
You've seen Kashmir.
Now let Kashmir answer back.
Honeymoons, one-day loops, hidden valleys, the best Wazwan near Dal Lake — Waza is the intelligence behind everything you just scrolled through.
The definitiveguide to realKashmiri food.
From the royal 36-course Wazwan feast to the communal morning bakery runs. Discover the rules, the etiquette, and the centuries-old techniques.
Traditional Dishes100+
Wazwan CoursesUp to 36
Centuries of HistoryXV Century
"To understand Kashmir, one must first eat with a Waza."
Scroll to explore
THE TRAMI, MAPPED
One plate. Four ways in.
A wazwan trami is shared four to a plate. Consider this its digital twin — every category of Kashmiri food, arranged the way the real thing is served. Tap a quarter to go there.
CHAPTER 01
The Royal Wazwan.
36 courses of artistry.
Cooked over smoldering wood fires through the night by master chefs (Wazas), this is not just a meal. It is a highly choreographed social ritual where every cut of lamb has a specific purpose.
36Courses
4People per Trami
10+Hours to prepare
01Signature
Aab Gosht
Mild milk-based lamb
02Signature
Aloo Bukhar Korma
Plum-laced meatballs
03Signature
Daniwal Korma
Coriander yogurt curry
04Condiment
Doon Chetin
Walnut–green chili chutney
05Vegetarian
Dum Oluv
Yogurt-braised potatoes
06Signature
Gushtaba
Velvety pounded meatballs
07Vegetarian
Haakh
Kashmiri collard greens
08Signature
Marchwangan Korma
Fiery red chili mutton
09Signature
Matsgand
Spicy red meatballs
10Foundation
Methi Maaz
Fenugreek tripe
11Foundation
Muji Chetin
Radish walnut chutney
12Vegetarian
Nadru Yakhni
Lotus stem cooked in
13Foundation
Rice
Base of every trami
14Signature
Rista
Bright red meatballs
15Signature
Rogan Josh
Iconic red lamb curry
16Foundation
Seekh Kebab
Traditional ground skewers
17Foundation
Tabak Maaz
Crispy fried lamb ribs
18Vegetarian
Tsoek Wangangan
Sour spicy eggplant
19Signature
Yakhni
Curd-based gravy
20Vegetarian
Waza Paneer
Rich fried paneer
CHAPTER 02
Pink tea & Saffron.
A culture of warmth.
From the savory, blush-pink Noon Chai brewed with baking soda and salt, to the aromatic Kahwa steeped with saffron, almonds, and cardamom. Beverages here are about hospitality.
SaltIn daily tea
SamovarCopper brewing pot
CHAPTER 03
The local Kandur.
Fresh bread on the hour.
No Kashmiri bakes bread at home. Every neighborhood has a Kandur (baker) who fires up the tandoor at dawn. Different breads are baked at specific hours of the day.
GirdaMorning staple
LavasaAfternoon wrap
CHAPTER 04
Srinagar's Streets.
Smoke & spice.
Outside the formal feasts lies a bustling street food culture. Coal-grilled Tujji skewers, deep-fried lotus stems, and rich winter Harissa paste cooked overnight.
